This is a typical housewall facing procedure with very popular and
cost-effective manufactured stone.

The first step is covering all non-concrete walls or wall sections
with tar-paper to shield off moisture.

Then comes a layer of metal lathe,
which is stapled with plenty of staples onto the wooden understructure,
in order to connect and bond the masonry layer to the actual wall.

Also important, is a temporay base,
to start stacking the stone up.
This needs to be perfectly level.
After the mortar has cured, it can be removed,
before the area is filled for landscaping
or the pour of a concrete or asphalt driveway.

Now the stacking of the stone wall can begin.

The metal lathe receives a coat of mortar,
as well as the rear side of the stone.

The positioning should occur quite quickly,
as the stone absorbs the moisture of the mortar,
which quickly creates the tack.

If a stone is moved after this initial tack, it will not bond properly,
and should be taken out and get new mortar applied.
(Careful, to not move other stones too, while doing this!).

Since even manufactured stone often times
has no perfectly straight edges,
shimming it with pieces of cardboard or thin wood
is necessary, as to keep the top edge level and straight.
Constant monitoring with a level is crucial !

And when nearing the top, also measuring the remaining distance,
and making necessary adjustments, is important,
to arrive perfectly parallel with the top edge.

At last, the wall will either end under a flashing,
or receive a special cap stone with slight bevel and overhang,
to aid a good water run-off.

If the stone wall features a visible mortar line,
it will be necessary to smoothen and patch them with a slicker.

If the mortar is hidden (no mortar between the stone - only behind),
then the stone might need some cleaning after the mortar has set,
yet not cured yet, with a stiff bristle brush or straw broom, and
as little water as possible, as water can cause mortar being washed out, which can then cause ugly runners or a whitish residue on the stone
when dried. This can ruin an otherwise nice job !

Here a similar project:

The facing of pillars and a different manufactured stone.

Same procedure:

Tar-paper and metal lathe,
and a good level support to start on.

With pillars special attention must be paid to the edges.
They should be perfectly straight, or the whole pillar will look crooked !
Looking from the top downwards will best reveal any off-line tendency.

Support removed, ready for fill-in or a driveway slab.

And another house facing with yet a different stone:

 
A good preparation of everything needed is part of a good job.

This type of work requires ease at mind, focus and staying in a flow.
Distractions and interuptions are just as disturbing as being in stress - 
all factors, that can considerably influence the final work !

Everything is handy and well mixed mortar on the 'mud-board'.

The water bottle is needed, to  constantly adjust the consistancy of the mortar, which is very important for a good tack and bond.

Again, the wall is prepared.
Here a water proofing membrane under the siding
can eliminate the tar-paper.

Also the exposed concrete foundation does not need a metal lathe layer, which is only necessary higher above over the wooden structure.

But again a level footing support is paramount.

The wall all stacked up and ending under the metal flashing.

The other sides of the house